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skychs
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1968 R60/2

I picked up this 68 R60/2 last summer after a long search for an old Vintage BMW. Overall its in good shape. Im the 3rd owner and the bike has around 37K miles on her. From the history the engine and transmission has been rebuilt and the bike has been partially painted several times. Since its not the original paint I have decided to strip her down, touch up the frame, clean her up, inspect her condition and paint the fenders, headlight/ears and tank. My goal is to get rid of all the rust, bare metal, old bushings. oil leaks and restore her back to a good looking daily rider.

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skychs
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photos

More photos....

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808Airhead
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Looks like a solid bike and

Looks like a solid bike and in good enough shape for preservation. Get some rubbing compound and rub the frame /swingarm out while you have some access,it will really pay off,dull frame paint sticks out. There is a awesome product called Evapo-rust,and you can apply it,it will convert/seal the rust but not affect the paint at all. You can leave it as is, or paint over it.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

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Evapo-rust

Thanks for the reply and information. The plan is to take one section at a time and touch it up. If I doesn't touch up well it will turn into a total tear down and frame restoration. I will try to post some photos as it progresses.

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Yes, rub it out...

You may be surprised at how well the ancient Glasurit paint will bounce back, and you'll never see a better gloss. I rubbed mine out using 3M 39062 Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish. This is grade 3. When you are buffing out a new paint job, this is the final step, so it is comparatively mild and easy to work with. It's about $30 on Amazon, but it's a big bottle that will probably last you the life of the bike.

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'67 R69S
'13 F800GT

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Mine came out better than I

Mine came out better than I expected. Chromed the handlebars, someone had painted them. Powder coated the kickstand,center stand & foot pegs. Painted around the battery box, painted front forks. Painted under all the fenders. Painted the wheels. The rest was clean & well clean. Rebuilt the engine.

twocams

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69 R69S 03 K1200GT
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808Airhead
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That looks GREAT! I just rode

That looks GREAT! I just rode my R69S today,I love that bike.

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R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

skychs
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paint

You guys are correct. The Glasurit frame paint is cleaning up very nice. It looks like I will be able to keep the frame original. That leads me to the fenders and tank ...... and I have a couple questions.

Avus 086 black paint. Color-Rite has it and there is a match to a PPG as well. I hear its a one stage paint, just prime and shoot the Avus black. My painter however says it needs a clear coat. If he adds a clear coat do you paint the stripes before or after the clear coat? So many questions, sorry. Im getting the pinstripes hand painted.
thanks

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Don't

Single-stage paint is just that. No clearcoat. Your painter has to get paint mixed that is just that. It requires a catalyst, but goes on just fine and the finish is fantastic. It also can be wet sanded and buffed if any imperfections happen. Hand stripe directly over the paint and no clear. Message me if you need the exact paint details.

Dave

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More about paint

My front fender was repainted with Glasurit black, but in my area the single stage version is not allowed. You can buy it and shoot it yourself, but shops can lose their license if they use it. I took a chance on the two-stage base-clear, and the result is very good. A concours judge might spot it--or maybe not.

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My understanding is that the

My understanding is that the current Glasurit system is water-based. As is all German/European paint systems. Clearcoat, however, is not water-based as far as I know. There are compatible clears I think, but the hardness is suspect.

I didn't know that there were areas in the US that distillate/solvent based paints were 'forbidden'. But you are on the West coast, so what a surprise. In the free US, we can still get state-of-the-art single stage distillate-based paint (real paint, if you will). It is what I just used to paint Dover White, and the finish is outstanding.

Dave

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paint

Daves79x wrote:

Single-stage paint is just that. No clearcoat. Your painter has to get paint mixed that is just that. It requires a catalyst, but goes on just fine and the finish is fantastic. It also can be wet sanded and buffed if any imperfections happen. Hand stripe directly over the paint and no clear. Message me if you need the exact paint details.

Dave

Dave, you have a message. I need all the info you can send. Thanks

Im not sure what Id do without everyone input. Thanks to everyone. Great stuff to know.

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Message

Your message didn't come through, at least not that I can see. Try again?

Dave

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There may be a problem with

There may be a problem with the message system. I've found that using the Contact tab on a person's profile doesn't seem to work. But if you try the Message application on the left side of the screen and send a message to the user's forum name, that seems to work. Hopefully this will get fixed.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

skychs
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Update

A little update on the restoration. In the process I found several issue, one being really bad. I discovered my front shocks were leaking and all the bushings need to be replaced. The bad one ...... When I took off the left BMW emblem on the tank I found no holes and the emblem was glued on. Apparently there has been some body work and that area of the tank has filled in with filler. So, no structural integrity to attach the emblem with screws. Now what?

In regards to the frame I applied Avus 8086 black paint. It looks good in the garage buy in direct sunlight it looks like it has silver metallic in it. Another hurdle in the restoration. Good thing I have all winter to work on this thing.

At this point I almost want to drop the engine and just redo the frame. Im so close but so far away.

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If a little bondo in the tank

If a little bondo in the tank is the worst issue you encounter I'd consider yourself lucky. Solid original tanks that just need a good coat of paint come up regularly for little money if you wanna rid yourself of the whole issue. It's tough to tell from the photos but the frame looks great. A little metallic flake might look damn nice unless you're going for factory original in which case, I see the dilemma. I've read about rebuilding the shocks with mixed reviews. Seems that most guys say just buy new, "it's a huge PITA rebuilding them." I haven't attempted so I couldn't say for myself.

Either way, thanks for the update on your progress. Lookin good!

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

skychs
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Update

Well .....
After a couple of hard weeks and having the dang bike almost taken completely apart I finally broke down and decided to do it right. Im going to finish stripping the frame and have the frame powder coated. The rattle can painting was going well but in the long run I knew the powder coat would last ten times as long and be more durable. So, all I have left are the two lower bolts and out goes the engine.

Its been a lot of fun so far. Working on the final drive, shaft and swing arm slowed me down a little but I managed to get through it. In place of a swing arm race removal tool I chopped down a pair of needle nose pliers until the tips filled the small holes in the race. Worked like a charm. The only thing left to figure out is how to take the shaft out of the swing arm. I loosened the nut in the far end but it didn't free up the shaft.

The shop today quoted me $400 for powder coating the frame, swing arm and center stand. That included sand blasting everything down to bare metal. Gloss black. Sounded fairly reasonable to me for all the work.

Oh, the bike still had the original ball bearings for the steering head and I don't think they were all there. It will get tapered bearings for the rebuild.

Anyway, here are some of the photos.

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Daves79x
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Just a little from my

Just a little from my experience - powder coating is OK - IF you prep it correctly. I just don't mean blasting to bare metal, etc, I mean prepping the mounting points, plugging threaded holes, masking anywhere you don't want powder coat. Steering stem, bearing race surfaces, axle bores, all kinds of things possibly a commercial enterprise doing your frame wouldn't necessarily do. I'd have them blast the frame, then get the frame back and do all the above prep - then have them powder coat. You'll be a lot more satisfied.

Dave

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powder coat

Daves79x wrote:

Just a little from my experience - powder coating is OK - IF you prep it correctly. I just don't mean blasting to bare metal, etc, I mean prepping the mounting points, plugging threaded holes, masking anywhere you don't want powder coat. Steering stem, bearing race surfaces, axle bores, all kinds of things possibly a commercial enterprise doing your frame wouldn't necessarily do. I'd have them blast the frame, then get the frame back and do all the above prep - then have them powder coat. You'll be a lot more satisfiedDave

I appreciate the input. I discussed all of that with the guy who is powder coating the bike. They do a lot of motorcycle frames so he aware of all the prep. I left the old ball bearing races in the steering head to help protect the stem. They will come out when I install the new tapered bearings. In regards to all the threaded holes if anything gets in there I have a nice tap/die set and plan to clean them up before I put everything back together.

skychs
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Paint

Well .....
Today I dropped off the frame parts to get powder coated. I switched to another guy who was recommended to me from a local BMW restoration shop. Apparently the guy builds custom motorcycles and has a great reputation for detail. Since he specializes in motorcycles I though he would be a great choice. I will keep you posted on that.

I also picked up the painted parts tonight fresh from the clear coat. Overall I think he did a pretty good job. Once everything dries Im sure one wet sanding and buffing will take care of any imperfections we find. I was supposed to drop it all off tomorrow for pin striping but I think Im going to wait a week or so to do it. Avus 8086 Black.

Here are the photos from the day.

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808Airhead
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Looks great!!!

Looks great!!!

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R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

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Tank & Fenders look great.

Tank & Fenders look great.

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1969 BMW r60/2, US Model, 1995 BMW K75, 2006 Yamaha TW200, 2007 Ural Patrol

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rebuild

Here I go again. The frame came back from the powder coat. New shocks. All new shock/swing arm (front and rear) bearings and seals. Tapered steering head bearings. The tank and fenders are still out for pin striping. Let the fun begin.

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Daves79x
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Looking Good!

Fantastic! You are on your way now.

Dave

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Progress

I had a little bit of progress today. The front swing arm was done so I will able to pick it up and install the front end of the bike. While I was there the pin striper was painting the tank and fenders. I didn't get to see it all but I caught a glimpse of the tank and front fender. I pick up everything tomorrow.

Tomorrow should be a great day........

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Looks great! Thanks for

Looks great! Thanks for sharing the photos and your continued progress.

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

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Progress

OK
The engine is in. Everything is starting to come together. So far Im very happy. The headlight bucket, switch, circuit board and re-wiring is underway. I struggled with the ignition switch until I found some decent diagrams so thats ready when the wiring is done. Im following the re-wiring by the book and everything seems to be going together. Couple photos of the rebuild. I had to stick the tank on just to see what its going to look like.

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Daves79x
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Looking Good, But.....

Your engine may be in, but the tranny is going to have to come back out. The shift lever has to go on before the transmission is installed. You can't get the bolt up through, and it HAS to come up through. No real biggie, but it has to be done.

Dave

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shift lever

Daves79x wrote:

Your engine may be in, but the tranny is going to have to come back out. The shift lever has to go on before the transmission is installed. You can't get the bolt up through, and it HAS to come up through. No real biggie, but it has to be done.
Dave

Hey Dave,
Take a look at the 4th photo. The shift lever is in place. Both the MAX BMW and Blue Moon parts diagrams show the pin going in at the top with the nut and washer on the bottom.

http://www.bluemooncycle.com/Blue_Moon_Catalog.pdf page 32

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=48037

Unless loading the pin from the top changes the angle of the shift lever Im going to call it done for now. Take a look at the diagrams and let me know what you think.

Also, what about the kick start lever? Insert up or down?
thanks

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Even so, if the nut is on the

Even so, if the nut is on the bottom, it can interfere with the frame and prevent you from downshifting fully, especially into first.

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It Does

Putting the pin in from the top does change the angle of the shifter. I think this has been widely commented on. If you look at the pin and the bore it goes into on the shifter, one hole is larger - the bottom one - and that's where the head of the pin is meant to seat. Just looked at mine and the top of the head of the shifter (part with the rubber) is just flush with the bottom of the frame tube. Yours looks to be significantly lower than that. Hope you are right, but others with far more expertise and experience may chime in. Here is a thread that addresses this issue:

http://vintagebmw.org/v7/node/5194

Dave

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Shifter

Well .....
Im going to listen to you. It's the reason I'm here, correct?

The engine is bolted in but the drive shaft is not connected yet and the swing arm is still loose. I'll disconnect the swing arm, pull the drive shaft back and see if I can lift and twist the tranny out. If I remember correctly that's how I took it out the first time.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

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I Know You Won't Go Wrong

I know you won't go wrong by changing it. If I hadn't stumbled upon this info when I was researching my build, and had relied on the parts fiche (as I often still do), I would have done the exact same thing. Bummer BMW got that wrong. Another thing they show likely backwards is the rear brake arm pivot bolt. You can install it with the nut toward the fender, before the fender is on, but you'll never get it off without taking the fender off. Many original bikes and most restorations have it with the castellated nut out, but BMW shows in the parts book the other way. Not as critical as the shifter though. Good luck!

Dave

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Shifter pinch bolt

I also installed mine upside down and was hard shifting into 1st gear
It does look wrong if the nut is on top

I don't think the transmission has to come out
Its great that Dave noticed it in upside down at this point
You don't need a lot of clearance to reinstall it
I think if you remove the upper engine mount and take out the rear engine bolt you can tilt it up to get the clearance you need
Worst case you may have to support the engine/trany and also remove the front engine bolt

Your bike looks great and thanks for the update
I sure wish I new this when I installed mine

Tommy

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54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

skychs
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Thanks

Thanks Dave.

The rear brake arm pivot bolt was my next issue. I'll readdress that as soon as I get the shifter pin turned around.

Tommy, thanks for your input. Since the drive shaft is not connected yet it may be a lot easier tilting the engine.

I'm out of town until Tuesday. I will have plenty of time to think about it.

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pin

wa1nca wrote:

I also installed mine upside down and was hard shifting into 1st gear
It does look wrong if the nut is on top
I don't think the transmission has to come out
Its great that Dave noticed it in upside down at this point
You don't need a lot of clearance to reinstall it
I think if you remove the upper engine mount and take out the rear engine bolt you can tilt it up to get the clearance you need
Worst case you may have to support the engine/trany and also remove the front engine bolt
Your bike looks great and thanks for the update
I sure wish I new this when I installed mine
Tommy

Tommy ..... Thank you sir !! Like you said, all I did was remove the upper engine mount, the rear engine lower bolt and tip the engine forward (scissor jack) just enough to access the pin from the underside. The drive shaft was already disconnected. I didn't even have to take off the front engine cover.

Thanks again for everyone's input. Now I have to work on the rear brake rod assembly.

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skychs
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progress

Once I got the shifter pin in the correct position I went to work. I finished wiring the battery, rear light and grounds. I added the seat, the tank and I finished the rear brake arm. I ended up inserting the bolt from the inside going out. I hope that works......

All I really have left to do is ..... the headlight bucket. Wiring and key. Once that is all in I will attach the drive shaft then go over the bike and tighten everything I can find. Im only a couple days from adding fuel and taking her for a ride. I think.

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wa1nca
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Upper front shock bolt

Looks great
Its always a good feeling to be so near your first ride

But
Before you do go out
The upper bolt on the right front shock is in backwards

I haven't done that one but did run my 55 r50 for several years before I realized the the ears holding the headlight were installed upside down

You also must pass the 100 point inspection by are members before you first ride
Hope this doesn't delay your first run

Tommy

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Bolt

Thanks Tommy.
I know about the shock bolts. Nothing is tightened up yet. I still need to install the front swing arm bushing seals so its all coming apart. Thats the job today.

I look forward to the 100 point inspections. Its incredible what you guys notice. Smile

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inspection

In regards to the 100 point inspection .......

I was having toooooo much fun today. See anything wrong in the photos? Smile

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Missing Parts

You forgot to put the saddle bags and sidecar on
At least they are not on backwards or upside down !!

Otherwise see no other problems
Looks great
Keep up the good work

Tommy

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First view

Ta Daaa !!! All back together now I have to get it running. It shouldn't take too much. I just had to roll it out for a photo. Proud Papa.

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Nice! I think Vech sells

Nice! I think Vech sells little plastic inserts for the holes in the rear fender. Or you maybe able to find some decent plastic part at one of the big box hardware stores.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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Beautiful! Thanks for

Beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

Saw your MotoGiro vest, coming down to Asheville in May?

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rear seat

schrader7032 wrote:

Nice! I think Vech sells little plastic inserts for the holes in the rear fender. Or you maybe able to find some decent plastic part at one of the big box hardware stores.

I have the four rubber inserts but its getting a rear seat once I get it running.

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Giro

Connor1 wrote:

Beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

Saw your MotoGiro vest, coming down to Asheville in May?

Indeed we are. Im riding a 1967 CL77 305 Scrambler in the Giro. That was my rebuild last year. Please say hello if you see me.

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100 Point Inspection

Very nice for a partial restoration
A+++
Have fun riding and its ok to get it dirty

PS
305 Scrambler
The boot for the clutch cable is not properly installed
The front tire air pressure also is too low

Went to Motogiro in Brattleboro Vt last year with my r69s
Also rode my r27 to Brodie Mountain in New Ashford, Ma 3 times
for the motogiro event ( about 40 miles from my house)

Lots of nice bikes and people

Pics of saddle bags when installed

Tommy

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305

wa1nca wrote:

Very nice for a partial restoration
A+++
Have fun riding and its ok to get it dirty

PS
305 Scrambler
The boot for the clutch cable is not properly installed
The front tire air pressure also is too low
Went to Motogiro in Brattleboro Vt last year
Also brought my r27 to Hancock Ma. twice
Lots of nice bikes and people
Pics of saddle bags when installed
Tommy

Tommy, you are incredible. Thanks. I guess it really wasn't a partial restoration after all was it? It was my intention but my passion talked me into doing it right. I love the old bikes and I guess I always will. Don't worry, Ill get it wet and dirty. You should have seen the 305 after the last Giro in NY. It rain (poured) the entire second day. Less than half the crowd showed up. It made it easy to win. Smile

Now, in regards to the CL77. That was a photo op before the bike was finished, just like the ones of the /2 in my last post. Im surprised you didn't see the headlight wasn't secured. Got ya! Anyway, the clutch cable now runs inside the tank AND there is good air in the tires. What a great little bike. I love riding that thing. My first bike as a kid was a 305 Super Hawk.

Photos of the Enduro bags may take awhile. I still have the original mounts but Im not sure I want to mess up my nice paint job to install them. There are a couple after market mounts that may work so I will keep you in touch.

Thanks again for all the advice, comments and recommendations. Keep them coming.
chuck

Connor1
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VBMWMO #8472
Joined: 10/03/2012
Posts: 25
Kinda funny. You have really

Kinda funny.

You have really good taste in bikes!

See you in Asheville, and if your unobtanium aluminium fenders come up missing, I have no idea what happened......

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robgernstetter
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Joined: 09/29/2016
Posts: 33
seat

nice restoration!

two things, consider passenger seat that attaches to rack, less chance of rear fender damage

your rear brake pedal should be painted black

skychs
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VBMWMO #9221
Joined: 11/25/2016
Posts: 264
rack

robgernstetter wrote:

nice restoration!
two things, consider passenger seat that attaches to rack, less chance of rear fender damage
your rear brake pedal should be painted black

Thanks. I debated over the rack/seat combination or just the seat with the curved mount. Esthetically I preferred the curved seat so I went with that. Later on I bought a rack but the holes don't line up to the fender. Im not sure how that happened. Anyway, the fender is so nice I haven't been able to talk myself into installing anything yet.

In regards to the brake pedal .... I painted it black but a local airhead owner said it should be silver so I painted it silver. Since then I have realized he was wrong. For now its going to be my signature mess up because that darn brake pedal assembly was a pain in the butt. Why the shifter lever is grey/chrome and the brake pedal is black I don't know. IMHO I think it looks better gray.

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