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chuckr
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hi, I'm installing new pushrod seals in my '72 /5. All is going well and it's very straightforward. But I have two questions:

1. Could I use a wire brush (or wire brush on my drill) to clean the carbon on the head and piston (with only 30k miles I have a good amt of carbon deposits - perhaps running too rich over it's lifetime)?

2. Putting the rockers back on and torquing, I've adjusted the end play using the 'oil seeping' method and they are totally free to move but not excessive. HOWEVER, on my bike there is a lot of side movement play when torquing down, it's not clear to me how to set these side to side - in relation to each other? So the distance between the top and bottom blocks are equal - that is perfectly parallel?

Before I took it all apart the rocker top/bottom blocks on the intake + exhaust were NOT square to each other...is this critical? I can't seem to glean this info from Snowbum or other sources. He does say there is a tool but it's not worth it? there's a lot to read on his site so I may have fatigued...

thanks Chuck

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Chuck R
1972 R75/5, '69 2002, '82 528e
NY

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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Purchasing Oak Okleshen's

Purchasing Oak Okleshen's manual on performing a top end would have been helpful. $25 well spent.

I don't think I'd use a wire wheel on the pistons/heads...seems like it would put small scratches that are spots for new carbon to form. Oak recommends Hydroseal...it's a Gunk product. Soak everything for a number of days, then scrape off with a stout piece of wood...I've found that chopsticks, the kind made from bamboo, are very good for picking at things.

In Oak's book he also mentions that the tool used to align the rockers is cumbersome. But he does provide some guidance for "solving 3 equations and 3 unknowns". I think it would be important to get this alignment correct for proper running of the engine. I suspect that Snowbum discusses the process. It's basically geometry. The stud centers should be 93mm apart and the rockers themselves need to be parallel to each other while the whole assembly forms a perfect square.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

chuckr
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good suggestions, I didn't

good suggestions, I didn't know about Oak...I'll investigate. Thank you,
Chuck

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Chuck R
1972 R75/5, '69 2002, '82 528e
NY

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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Oak doesn't have a

Oak doesn't have a website...he's old school. Send him an email to "askoak at aol dot com".

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

chuckr
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Thanks Kurt, I shot him an

Thanks Kurt, I shot him an email and am waiting for a reply. I did put it back together using instructions/advice from Snowbum and another sources, and for the most part they seem to be correct after much trial and error - very quiet but I think one rocker is still loose as I quickly ran the bike without the rocker covers to take a peek and i was getting a stream of oil from one rocker and the other 3 where more 'splashy'. When I moved that rocker it seemed to move more than others...going to get the Oak book and re-tackle.

new question: I took another look as the rocker what was producing more of a 'flow' than a 'splash' and there seems to be very slight play in that rocker, but can't seem to take up the slack without it binding, or not being as 'free' as the others...and it also seemed like the valve gap on that rocker (intake) closed up after a short run, while the others just closed up a tiny bit...could there be something wrong with that rocker, the bike only has 30k miles so doubt that it's worn?

thanks chuck

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Chuck R
1972 R75/5, '69 2002, '82 528e
NY

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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Not real sure. I know that

Not real sure. I know that the pillow blocks on either side of the rocker arms have an inside-outside orientation...it's important to get that right. I was wondering if the needle bearings in the ends of the rocker arms have come out...but you would see them if they remained trapped in the valve cover area. Sometimes, they can migrate through the oil return path and the pushrod tubes to end up in the bottom of the oil pan.

Sounds like you're going to need to take that one apart and compare it with the other.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

chuckr
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Thanks for response Kurt, I

Thanks for response Kurt, I didn't take these apart just took them off and carefully set aside...I didn't think that these had needle bearing but a bushing? I agree, sounds like I have to remove and investigate - Chuck

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Chuck R
1972 R75/5, '69 2002, '82 528e
NY

Tri750
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Fresno, Ca.
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If you can get past the foul

If you can get past the foul language, Chris Harris on YouTube has I think, a very good way to adjust the rockers included in part 3 of his replacing the pushrods seals series. Here's the link.
I worked at a bmw dealership for 13 years and the original owner was an airhead genius and he used the same method as is used in the video and taught the new techs the same.
You'll have to zoom forward a bit to get to the rocker portion.

http://youtu.be/Y9R_i-w71Rg

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Current:'72 BMW R75/5 Racer, '73 Kaw. Z1 Racer, '76 BMW R75/6, '99 BMW R1100RT

chuckr
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Yes! Chris Harris is good,

Yes! Chris Harris is good, I've watched those a few times. I think I have the process down, my issue now is that one of the rockers seems like it has play and the oil 'flows' or gushes while the others are 'splashing' oil - when I try to take up the play, it binds the rocker. I suspect that one is worn allowing more oil out, but not sure it's a 'real' problem - the bike runs nice and quiet and I would not have seen that if I did remover the rocker covers and ran the bike to see how the push rods were centering. thanks Chuck

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Chuck R
1972 R75/5, '69 2002, '82 528e
NY

chuckr
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Update: I took another crack

Update: I took another crack at reducing the rocker play, but it kept on binding and then when tested - wasn't loud, but oil flowed out strong...so pulled the offending rocker arm and took it apart, there is definitely some play in the brass bushing (suspect that the wear is letting too much oil past), you can see side to side movement and there are wear marks on the inside. I ordered some new bushings and a new style washer...I'll report back after installation of new parts.
Chuck

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Chuck R
1972 R75/5, '69 2002, '82 528e
NY

chuckr
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Update on the update

I rec'vd the new rocker bushings (Max via Germany) and new style washers and that solved the 'too much oil' spray! thanks for help. Chuck

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Chuck R
1972 R75/5, '69 2002, '82 528e
NY

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