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San Arthur
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Speedometer VDO? Question for you.

This VDO was with Zenaida when I purchase her in the 80´s.



This are two replacement speedos.

Is the VDO original to the R26?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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speedometer VDO? Question for you.

Is this VDO 38 the original speedometer for a R26 sold in a Km/h country, or it was borrowed from another European bike?



Please let me know, I need to know if I should restore it. Thanks

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Slash2
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Battery compartment rubber trim

Good luck with that. My original rubber trim had rotted away when I brought my R27 out hibernation so I ordered a replacement from benchmark works. You have to completely remove the cover, battery and wiring to replace. Once the rear panel is unbolted and removed, installation is mostly straight forward. The issue is that after about 2 years in temp controlled storage, the new rubber gasket literally disintegrated. A call to Richard at benchmark didn’t provide much help. He told me the new rubber parts are not like the originals but they’re all that’s available. Well, that’s frustrating. So I spent another $15, tore the battery compartment apart again and replaced it. Again. Will I do this every 2 years? I think not.

If anyone has any suggestions as to something you might treat the gasket with to prolong life, I’d be interested.

Chris

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

Slash2
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Speedo

Doesn’t look right to me.

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

San Arthur
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RIm Strip

I used a rim strip, same material as the inner tubes.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Handlebar C Clamps Question

I have a question.
Which is the correction direction for the handlebar C clamp?

With the loop to the front?

Or the loop to the back? Will the opening to the front allow water to get in and rust the hardware easier than if to the back?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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Don't know that water would

Don't know that water would be the issue. The location of the loop changes the ergonomics a bit. What was it before this?

Here are a few pictures...maybe you can get an insight from them:

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/photopages/photosr26.htm

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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Rubber lube

Slash2 wrote:

If anyone has any suggestions as to something you might treat the gasket with to prolong life, I’d be interested.

Chris

Back in the day, we used brake fluid, DOT 3 since that was all there was, to lube the rubber parts on automobiles that were exposed to the elements.
It didn't hurt the rubber parts, and made us feel as though we were helping prolong the life of the rubber.
Just a thought.

San Arthur
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Brake fluid?

Note to myself: I need to get a modenr fancy bike that uses brake fluid instead of cables and pulleys!!

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Cone Head Award

Don't you hate it when you spend years restoring your BMW and waited months for dry days to apply coats of primer and the perfect black paint, economizing each drop to cover each square inch and the day you are ready to wire your work of art you realized YOU PAINTED THE WRONG LIGHT BUCKET!!!!

The bucket with the broken switchboard mount tabs!!

The Cone Head Award goes to: San Arthur

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Don't know that water would....

schrader7032 wrote:

Don't know that water would be the issue. The location of the loop changes the ergonomics a bit. What was it before this?
Here are a few pictures...maybe you can get an insight from them:
http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/photopages/photosr26.htm

Kurt thanks for the link. I don't remember the position it was. The pictures in your link have both front and back loop, so I decided to follow the picture in the manual and installed the loop to the back, towards the rider.

Thanks

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

wa1nca
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Cone Head

I think we have all done that but most wont tell anyone
Nice job on our bike
PS
You look good with your new hat
Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

Jim D 5112
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Remember

Remember the Coneheads?

San Arthur
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VBMWMO #7654
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Parental Units

Jim D 5112 wrote:

Remember the Coneheads?

Dan Aykroyd, yes I do remember.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Throttle control

I installed the cable in the throttle control but I couldn't insert it thru the handlebar.

The throttle chain cover screw was in the way.
[/url]

Here is the reason, the screw was over tighten and broke the receiver allowing it go further into the bar.

I found a conical, talking about Cone Heads, washer that will momentarily solve the problem.

The screw is not flush and throttle is not as smooth as it was.

Throttle control will need to be replaced; I think it only last 62 years of abuse.
I had to make a small bearing to compensate. Is amazing how a insignificant modification opens a chain of adjustments.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Cables next

The cables are next, but I have a question.

How do count the clics in the carb needle, from the top or the bottom? The more clics the longer the needles goes?

Thanks.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

schrader7032
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The clip positions are

The clip positions are measured with respect to the blunt end.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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clip position

schrader7032 wrote:

The clip positions are measured with respect to the blunt end.

Yes top hole is #1
Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

San Arthur
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Needle

wa1nca wrote:
schrader7032 wrote:

The clip positions are measured with respect to the blunt end.

Yes top hole is #1
Tommy

Got it, thanks Tommy.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Some electrical work

I continue working with the controls. The light and horn switch was next. I remembered the switch being bigger, now I have an unpainted surface.

I used my touch up paint and brush to cover the uncovered surface.

Since these wires need to go inside the switch and I have plenty of time, I decided to make them look nicer.

Strip the wires and them dipped them in solder.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Electrical

Using my solder furnace, I fixed the wire tips on all my terminals. Quarantine is the perfect time to do this type of jobs, like polishing the hardware, electrical, etc.


Makes the wires easier to install in the switches and terminals.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Wire labeling

Wire labeling

I numbered all my cables when a put Zenaida apart. I used a marker over masking tape or scotch tape and very bad handwriting. Now I don’t remember and can´t read where they attach to.

Also some of the scotch tape I use to stick the numbers and markers is ungluing.

I got some transparent shrink tubing and my heat gun.

Instead of my ugly handwriting I printed some of the numbers and names to mark each terminal.

If you don’t have a printer or transparent shrink tubing you can cut small sections of normal black shrink tubing for each end of a small paper and use a fin marker.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Hi/lo Switch

I covered more then I should, and I need to use my touchup brush to cover part of the clutch control.


It looks better.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Jim D 5112
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Wire Markers

Wire markers used to mark the wires on electric motors and other circuits can be purchased in a pocket pack they are preprinted and are put on like a little strip of duct tape. Look for wire marker pocket pack, they are not that expensive.

San Arthur
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Thanks

Jim D 5112 wrote:

Wire markers used to mark the wires on electric motors and other circuits can be purchased in a pocket pack they are preprinted and are put on like a little strip of duct tape. Look for wire marker pocket pack, they are not that expensive.

Thanks for the tip, I checked and there are also printers. Maybe for my next project.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Exhaust question

Is the R27 and R26 exhaust pipe the same?

I purchased a brand new exhaust pipe from a friend, but it doesn't align with the frame clamp.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

wa1nca
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R27, R26
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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

San Arthur
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Different

Thanks Tommy, Vech just confirmed they are different.

Does any of you need a brand new R27 exhaust? Do you have a R26 to exchange?

THanks

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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I'm bored in the house and I'm in the house bored

Polishing hardware because I'm in the house bored waiting for spares. NY Customs has delays which is understandable.


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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Oil seepage

I change the oil pan gasket and put fresh oil and I notice oil seepage from the gasket and today a leak.

I took the pan off again and discovered is not perfectly flat.

How hard is to straighten it? Or should I used Yamabond? Or change the pan?

Next time you think the paint job is not nice, if it runs ok just leave it, DO NOT re-paint it!

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

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Permatex

Use Permatex Ultra Grey sealant on both the gasket and bolt threads. No more leaks.

Dave

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Dave

San Arthur
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Sealant

Daves79x wrote:

Use Permatex Ultra Grey sealant on both the gasket and bolt threads. No more leaks.

Dave

Good suggestion, will try have plenty of time to try.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Swiss chocolate

Front shock absorber cartridges arrived from Huggett today, after a long stay in NY customs.

I disinfected everything, including the Swiss chocolate, nice surprise. Thanks

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Daves79x
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One Thing

One thing that seems universally true about replacement shocks for the /2 is that they are all rather stiffer than the originals. I put 4 new ones on my R50 restoration. I'd have to say they are decidedly stiffer than the originals,though I never rode it before (came in boxes). I have ridden a few other original bikes and they all seemed much smoother riding than my R50. I think I have heard this expressed before.

Dave

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Adjustable?

If they are adjustable, they may be set on the stiffest option. My Konis have a significant range of variation, depending on how they are dialed in.

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Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

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Straighten the pan

When I take my oil pans off, I always straighten them. I put a 1/4" thick x 3" wide metal plate in my vice and I use that on the bottom side of the pan and a light ball peen hammer (flat side) on the top to the make the mating surface flat. It's not that hard but you need to be easy with the hammer and not over do it.

A touch with a light file on the mating surface will show you where the uneven parts are as well!

Once they are straight I don't use any sealant and just put the cork gasket on. Never had a leak yet!!!

Edit: The only parts I put silicon on are the bolts that go into the block that are open to the oil. You can have some oil seepage down the threads. Also, don't over tighten it. That is what bends them.

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James W.
1967 R69S, 1966 R50/2, 1965 R27, 1963 R27, 1952 R51/3 and 2018 R1200GS

San Arthur
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Ride

When I inspected the old shocks they had no action at all, only the springs where working. I will check, hopefully soon and report back. Thanks for your lines Dave

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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No adjust

There are no adjust in these classic shock cartridges only the preload in the rear struts.

Maybe a heavy breakfast could compensate? Thanks Jnn for commenting.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Straighten the pan

James, the pan is original to the bike and had suffer a lot of abuse and repairs. I guess the leak is from a frontal hit in the front top left lip. I'm afraid it will break if I try to bend. If the silicon does not work I will try to use heat and worst case scenario I will replace.

I have to admit my plan was only to repaint the fuel tank, but one thing let to another and several month later I'm here. It was never my intention to do a full restoration, I only want to fix all the problems cause by decades of use.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Shock eyes

Today I used the press to install the new shock eyes.


A very simple and satisfying job.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Inside the oil pan

Inside the oil pan.

I took a picture from inside the oil pan.
The oil pump grill is on top the pan at the buttom.

Here you see the sealant doing it’s job.

I inserted the camera, turn off all the light and shine a super bright flashlight from outside of the pan/engine gap and nothing.

How long do I have to wait to let the sealant dry?

Hubs
I also sand blasted the hubs and I notice play inside within the bearings. I may have to replace the inner working of the hubs, oh my.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Daves79x
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If You

If you sand blasted the hubs with the bearings in place, you certainly need to replace them now. For any blasting operation glass beads are much preferred, or vapor, but in any case you need to completely strip the hub. Maybe you did, but it doesn't sound like it.

Dave

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Dave

San Arthur
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Disclaimer

Daves79x wrote:

If you sand blasted the hubs with the bearings in place, you certainly need to replace them now. For any blasting operation glass beads are much preferred, or vapor, but in any case you need to completely strip the hub. Maybe you did, but it doesn't sound like it.

Dave

Dave makes a very good point and some comments are in order:

The material and information contained in my posts on this web forum is for general information purposes only. You should not rely upon the material or information on my posts as a basis for making any restorations, mechanical repairs, technical or any other decisions.

If the reader follow my post you will notice I cover with special plugs and tape all critical parts before blasting, painting, sanding, etc. I use 3M preservation tape when needed.

In the case of my hubs, I checked both axle channels before and declared the bearings defunct, later I blasted the hubs.

I left the hardware in place since most of it will be replaced and to protect any mating surfaces. Even so, as a habit mybe, I did cover everywhere with tape.

Dave, thanks for pointing that out is important information.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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San Arthur - Did you get my

San Arthur -

Did you get my message regarding the hub nut remover?

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

San Arthur
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Yes I did

Yes I did, and I answered you, thanks

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Some parts missing

I disassemble the hubs and both have parts missing. I don't remember the ride being so bad, but then the vibration was terrible.

[/url]

Almost everything will be replace.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

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You Will

You will likely need different wedding band spacers when you rebuild. I ended up getting just about every normal-range size to shim the two sets I did. Kind of a tedious operation until you figure it out.

Dave

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Dave

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Shims

Thanks I almost forgot to order some.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Question for all R26·& R27 Experts

Question for all R26·& R27 Experts

I’m rebuilding the hub for both wheels.
I want to replace the wheel trust sleeves.

I you look in Hugett parts list they show two sleeves, one on each end. Here as number 14 and part number: 36 31 4 038 142

But in other webpages in the USA they have only one sleeve, here as number 76, same part number.

So what should I get, 2 as Hugget or only 1?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

jambo
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One side only

I have included pictures from the R27 page in the parts book as well as pictures of a spare R27 wheel I have that I did not rebuild yet.

From both the parts book and the pictures you can see the top-hat spacer on the drive/brake side and the reverse top-hat clearly missing from the hub side. If you look in the picture of the hub side you will see the sleeve, wedding ring insert and the bearing, but no top-hat spacer. Also its clear that the felt seal surface is not sealed on the hub side. It has been a while since I did the R27, but I do seem to remember the "reverse top-hat" on one side.

Oh, and I do believe that the "hub cap" gets bolted on first, then the reverse top-hat, and then small hublet (my term). This allows the small hublet to stay stationary with the axle while the larger hub turns. If I remember it all correctly....
Hope this helps.

  • img_5864.jpeg
  • img_5865.jpeg
  • img_5866.jpeg
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James W.
1967 R69S, 1966 R50/2, 1965 R27, 1963 R27, 1952 R51/3 and 2018 R1200GS

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