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San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Save or replace

I tried using boiling water to soften the front peg rubber and remove them to paint the pegs.
But I couldn´t

Then I tried blow air to float them, but nothing.

Any suggestions? Should I just cut them loose and purchase replacements?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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More paint

The last parts are sandblasted as of today.

Jim´s temporary solution for keeping abrasive out of the bearings: a rubber plug clamped tightly over the axle holes. Can’t get at the outer edges this way but I can get those edges after you decide what to do about the bearing removal.

Frame, gas tank, headlight shell and misc. bits primed and on bench this afternoon. Almost paint ready. Front fork parts in paint room now with first tack coat of primer. First full wet coat primer in 10 minutes.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Epoxy drying

Front fork main parts now epoxy primered. Drying now.

I plan to paint the frame, its parts and forks with single stage black. The tank, proposed fenders, tailight and headlight I plan to do in two stage ( with clear coat) so that the white stripes can be painted on and clear coated smooth.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

malmac
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removing those peg rubbers

san-arthur wrote:

I tried using boiling water to soften the front peg rubber and remove them to paint the pegs.
But I couldn´t

Then I tried blow air to float them, but nothing.

Any suggestions? Should I just cut them loose and purchase replacements?

Guess it depends on the condition of the rubber. They don't look worn but maybe they are old and the rubber is not flexible anymore. I would try a wooden drift and a hammer to help jar them off - maybe a last resort - but still worth a try.

Mal

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mal - R69s
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malmac
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breathing apparatus?

san-arthur wrote:

Front fork main parts now epoxy primered. Drying now.

I plan to paint the frame, its parts and forks with single stage black. The tank, proposed fenders, tailight and headlight I plan to do in two stage ( with clear coat) so that the white stripes can be painted on and clear coated smooth.

I am interested in your painting process. Are you using breathing apparatus? I thought that using two pack paint was very toxic.

My plan is to use lacquer as it is easier to apply, clean up and repair - even if it is not as robust as the two pack paints.

However I am no expert so very happy to hear others opinions and experience.

Mal

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mal - R69s
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San Arthur
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Mask

You need a booth and air mask.

Here is Jim preparing the primer coat for the Brough.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

malmac
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Thanks for the pic

That sounds about right.

I am planning a small painting booth, but the air supply and exhaust fan for paint fumes has been bothering me.

Thanks

Mal

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Can
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Sir clamp them and get 20-22

Sir clamp them and get 20-22 wrench in one hand and get a hammer in other hand. Put the wrench behind the rubber and hummer it. You can take it off after hummering several times. I did so for my bikes footpegs' rubber and handlebar grips. And this way you can reuse it. They look pretty good.

San Arthur
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Hammer

Yasarken, thanks for your suggestion I will try as soon as I get to the shop.
I´ll take pictures and let your know.

Arturo

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

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Ok Dear Arturo. I can't wait

Ok Dear Arturo. I can't wait to see the photos. Good job. The Best you have done so far I've checked all the photos.

San Arthur
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Help with race bearings

Decision time here, too. This is the lower, inside ball bearing race should be removed before painting.
The race is corroded and lightly pitted.
Can I replace the 52 loose ball bearings with a caged, tapered bearing (top and bottom.).

I don’t know how to remove them (upper and lower.) Do you know someone or do you have the correct tool or technique?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Help removing bearings.

Notice the black perimeter edge. This is the edge of the tubing that comprises the part. Just interior from the edge is a shallow groove containing a little grease and road grit. We can clean the edge and groove with lacquer thinner. Then, sand the edge and prime. Interior from the groove is the rubber seal over the bearing. No abrasive grit went into the seal/bearing when sand blasted. Should we remove and replace the seal/bearing? Or, shall we work with what is here and mask off the seal/bearing to paint the black color?

I don’t know how to remove those bearings. Online a special tool was mentioned. Do you have a tool or know how to get the bearings out?

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'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

malmac
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Barrington Book

Mr Barrington uses a run of weld inside the race which shrinks the race and makes it easy to remove - obviously the bearing has to be replaced.

I have used the technique myself on previous bikes and it works fine.

Mal

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Daves79x
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Tools

The welding trick works fine, you can also cut through the race with a Dremmel. Looks like you have a ding in the head pipe. Might want to try to tap (or whack) that true before removing the race. And you do need to replace the stock head bearings with tapered. Don't go to all the trouble you are and not do that.

Cycle Works makes a tool to remove the races in the swingarm. You need to do that to to inspect everything and maybe replace them.

Mask off the steering damper rubbing surface on the bottom of the steering stem. Won't work very well painted.

Dave

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San Arthur
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Thanks

I will try this latter and will replace the the bearings.

Thanks Mal.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Tool

Dave I just asked my friends if they have one available before purchasing the extraction tool, which is not impossible expensive.

I will also try to repair the ding with my special hammer and replace the upper and lower bearings.

Thanks for reminding me about the damper friction surface.

Arthur

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'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Can
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Don't need anytool I think.

Don't need anytool I think. You need a jimmy and a hummer. As you know jimmy's edge is bent. You can take it off by hummering with the jimmy.

Airhead77
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Use alcohol

I've used alcohol to successfully remove and install all rubber items from hand grips and foot pegs. Pegs can be more difficult though, since they are square. Also, their rubber gets very hard after decades of exposure to the elements, so it will be trickier. After soaking them in hot water, try to force in between some alcohol with a syringe. Then grip the arm to a vice and use a thick leather glove to twist it out (unless you work in construction and you can tighten wheel nuts with your bare hands).

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San Arthur
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Lock

The lock tumbler is out. Removal was easy - just get a bigger hammer!

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Barrington book

Thanks to both Mal and Dave!

Old ball races removed last evening with the “weld in the old race and let cool” method. It worked very easily. Tapered roller bearing kit ordered!

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Another crack, or the same old crack?

Primer reveals all the little details as well as the BIG details. In this case another crack was revealed.

The crack is in the location of a prior repair.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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New/Old crack

Is it possible for a crack to continue running through the repair weld. Seeing is believing.

Any suggestions on how to repair??

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Daves79x
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I'd Say

I'd say that whole welded/cracked area is suspect. The old weld looks pretty shoddy, kind of like chewing gum stuck on. I'd grind it all out and start over with proper weld.

Dave

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San Arthur
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It's a new crack

The crack appeared on the other side of the frame, it was not my previous repair.
It will be weld latter.

Chewing gum weld? Please... Thank God it's only a hobby.

I will grind and weld on top, crack was never repaired. Previous owner only patched the bottom.

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'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Thanks for the suggestion.

YASARKAN, I used a wrench and a hammer and it worked.

Thanks

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'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

wa1nca
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installation

Just wet the inside of the rubber with alcohol and it will slide on
New or old rubber

Tommy

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Jim D 5112
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The Weld

My friend a certified welder at the time always referred to welds like the as chicken #### on a board.

San Arthur
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Poultry waste weld

Jim, I agree on the poor looks of the weld. Zenaida had a hard life while in Mexico. Most of all the defects were cover under the bondo and paint. But the work done to try to rescue the fenders is fascinating!
I will write on this on future posts.

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'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

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(-OH)

Tommy I did use alcohol as suggested in previous posts and both are out.

Thanks

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Drive shaft question.

This is the damper assembly that connects to the gearbox. It just slips off.

Everything was weirdly loose and easy to disassemble! The pin nut, for example, was only finger tight.
The four nuts at the rear drive were loose, too.
There is a bunch of string wrapped around the drive shaft!

There is no sign of any kind of dust shield at front of tube to exclude dirt. Parts diagrams show nothing was there.

Know anything about this?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Controls, springs and question!

Your handlebar controls are clean and epoxy primer ready.

The center stand springs are clean and still show a little “gold” color.

We’re the springs originally a gold color?

Do you know?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Paint procedure

Malmac

The paint procedure, or at least the one being use is; we first got all parts very clan, then treated the metal with phosphoric acid and then used a conventional primer but now with epoxy primer the parts must be clean and the phosphoric acid step is eliminated. Epoxy is “DTM” (direct to metal.) Phosphoric acid is diluted with water for application. So, possible contamination by water or water hiding in a crack or elsewhere is eliminated. Epoxy also in not “air dried.” It is a “two part” mixture (meaning a harder is mixed with the primer.) Epoxy is tougher. Modern chemistry. It grips the metal better. It also acts as a sealer. We are using painting booth and air masks.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

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Bearings

All four bearings removed. Three (3) were made in Germany by “FAG” and one was made in France. All are worn.
One was “crunchy”/“notchy” = bad.

Maybe the three German ones are original?

The tool I got from Cycleworks was essential!

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'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Question, help needed.

The two top row items are “Grease stop washers.” The fit into the rear swing arm underneath the swingarm bearings. I need two (2).

The two bottom row items are a mystery. They were installed between the grease stop washers and the bearings. They are obviously homemade. Nothing like these pieces is shown on any parts diagrams.

DO you have a part number?

Zanieda must have broken up a bearing in the rear of her gearbox at some point in the past. The breakup allow the front of the driveshaft to wobble around enough to beat up the inside of the drive shaft tube of the swingarm. You can see in the picture that one of the grease stop washers has a hole beaten through it.

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'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

malmac
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thank you for the information

San Arthur wrote:

Malmac

The paint procedure, or at least the one being use is; we first got all parts very clan, then treated the metal with phosphoric acid and then used a conventional primer but now with epoxy primer the parts must be clean and the phosphoric acid step is eliminated. Epoxy is “DTM” (direct to metal.) Phosphoric acid is diluted with water for application. So, possible contamination by water or water hiding in a crack or elsewhere is eliminated. Epoxy also in not “air dried.” It is a “two part” mixture (meaning a harder is mixed with the primer.) Epoxy is tougher. Modern chemistry. It grips the metal better. It also acts as a sealer. We are using painting booth and air masks.

Thank You.

I was planning to paint my own bike, but have no intention of going down the two pack road. I am happy with acrylic lacquer - yes not as hard, but easier to work with, to some extent less toxic and I have found it to be quite serviceable and easy to repair.

Thanks again.

Mal

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San Arthur
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Grease stop

According to Zenaida´s physician, Chris King from Alpine, Tx.:
" there is only one grease stop washer on the left side of the rear swing arm.Right side is already sealed.
Damage to inside of swing arm more likely from rubber drive disk falling apart and allowing to shaft to wobble around on a large arc and contacting the inside of swing arm. I've seen the whole disk missing and the 2 sets of opposing drive pegs wearing against each other to the point of wearing them halfway through."

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Bearing thrust washer

There are four matching bearing/ thrust washer/ seal assembly’s: two in Earles fork front swingarm and two in the rear swingarm. Cleaned the assemblies and swingarm interiors today.
These are the thrust washers.

All are worn. Two are corrosion pitted. One is scored and deformed.

So, when ordering parts for reassembly: grease stop washers (2); bearings (4); seals (4); thrust washers (4); and the shim kit/set.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Chrome

Today I left some parts in the chroming shop while visiting Mexico City on business.

I´ll report back next week when I pick them up.


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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Chrome ready

US$59 later..

Next trip I´ll bring the handle bar, muffler and exhaust pipe.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

Can
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Chromings look great..

Chromings look great..

Can
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You're welcome..

San Arthur wrote:

YASARKAN, I used a wrench and a hammer and it worked.

Thanks

You're welcome. All great minds think alike... Wink

San Arthur
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Paint

One pice at a time..

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Frame ready

Gary helped me repairing the cracks in the frame, and is ready to prep for primer.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Neck

San Arthur wrote:

I notice a dent in the frame neck, you think this will interfere with the fork?

Should I fix it, it has never bother me in the past.

Neck is fixed!

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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New fender arrived from India.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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Love/hate E-bay

As expected the fender is not as described on E-Bay, but for $120 I didn´t expect more. But it needs a lot of work.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Some work needed.

Center cable tunnel is missing.

And no indentation for the drive shaft. Any suggestions? Should I cut it from the old fender and weld it to the new?

Should I create a wooden form to hammer the fender into shape?

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Parkerize

Since I had some time I had some fun parkerizing some parts.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Air filter box

Air filter box is ready for painting.

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

San Arthur
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San Antonio, TX
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Fender from India

Set the frame on the bench and offered up the original fender and the repop from India. A am leaning toward the original - rebuilding it.

The repop just does not have the reinforcing plates, wire mounting tubing and will require the mounts on the rear spring towers to be relocated - a bunch of work.

I think the stock rear fender can be re-work and also the rear flap that holds the tail light. 

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San Arthur in San Antonio, Texas
'58 R26 '76 R90S '94 R100GS/PD

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