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bstratton
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Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 150

So now I've done it.

I decided this bike is just too ugly. I have begun to tear her down so I can send the frame and other painted parts out for a new paint job.
She ran great. I hope she will run again. I hesitate to call this a restoration but it is definitely a major cosmetic overhaul.
So far I have the tank, seat, rear fender and tail light - rear directionals, carbs, crash bar, exhaust and head light bucket off.

My question is: can anyone here tell me how the ignition switch (assembly) comes off. It is the only thing left and I cannot figure out how it is attached.

This will be a fun project but I would love to hear from anyone who has undertaken a similar challenge. I have questions like for instance:should I replace rusted or pitted items or have them re-plated. What are my options for my wheels. clean the spokes and hubs or replace spokes and clean hubs.. Where can I find parts like grips, foot pegs, turn signal light (green on headlight bucket) turn signal switch, high low switch and on and on. Is it worth getting the seat re-upholstered. Who does that work. It is a long list. I don't know what I don't know.

Mechanically I will be less adventurous. The bike ran great when I put it away this winter but I the left cylinder smoked when it was very hot out. Only when very hot. When the temps went down in the fall it stopped completely. I could ride it all day without a hint of smoke. Weird. I will do a leak down test and work from there. Tranny will come off and I will check the clutch disk and rear main seal and probably replace both.

This is a 1971 R60/5
I am in eastern Massachusetts

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Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

Darryl.Richman
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VBMWMO #6285
Surf City, USA (Santa Cruz, CA)
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 2185
If you can avoid removing the

If you can avoid removing the ignition switch, you will be happier in the end. There is a circuit board that is mounted under the ignition key hole. It is held in place by four metal tabs that are folded over. With the board in position, it holds half a dozen small parts and a strong spring in place. The tabs have a limited number of times they can be bent and unbent, and if one breaks off, it's a pain to repair. (There are directions - here, for example - and in other places on how to anneal the tabs, to counteract work hardening.)

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VBMWMO Webmaster,--Darryl Richman
http://darryl.crafty-fox.com

bstratton
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Joined: 08/10/2015
Posts: 150
Sliding cover

Thanks Darryl

I was afraid that would be the answer. I wanted it of to make it cleaner for paint and to protect it during the bodywork that needs to be done. It has a pretty good sized dent near one of the wiring harness holes. I'm sure we can work around it.

The other reason for the question is that the sliding cover that is supposed to close when the key is out is wonky. The cover stays open. It has no spring or friction... just loose. I was hoping I could fix that, too.

__________________

Bstratton
1971 R60/5
1965 R50/2 (project)
MA

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