3 replies [Last post]
Oldladyowner's picture
Joined: 01/23/2016
Posts: 1

Hi all,
I just got an 1975 R90. I've been trying to get the battery off to recharge it, and it is a pain! Do I really have to take the "rear frame" apart to take out the battery? Hints and/or links to videos will be greatly appreciated.

schrader7032's picture
VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6540
Hi, welcome to the forum!

Hi, welcome to the forum! I'm not sure I've seen any links or videos to remove a battery. I just did it on my /7 and probably should have documented it.

Do you have the relatively large battery? I've also used the batteries that require acid/water to be added from time to time. For me, this type of battery best matches the charging capabilities of the bike. People do use the AGM no-maintenance batteries. They're easier to install but sometimes the terminal hookups might be a bit different. Because of the smaller size, you may need to alter the hold downs for the battery or shim it so it fits better. While the bike's charging profile isn't totally correct for these batteries, it will do OK. I believe the failure mode for these different batteries are like falling off a cliff. On my lead acid slosh battery, it just gets weaker and weaker and then fails to start the bike...which is what happened to me about a month ago...had to roll the bike back in the garage and ride another day.

Two ways to remove the battery. One is to remove the air filter and the entire filter housing in front of the battery. Then you should be able to slide the battery forward and out.

The other way, and what I've always done is to go up through the tool tray area. I'll try and outline the major steps on my /7...should be similar to your /6:

- remove all the terminal connections; remove the drain for the battery if it has one
- find the two nuts on the backside of the top parts of the battery try. Remove these nuts...careful they don't fall all over the place.
- underneath the battery tray should be three nuts that hold the bottom down on small rubber donuts. I've found that if I loosen those nuts, not all the way off, this will let the tray tilt backwards.
- work the upper part of the tray around the frame and get the whole tray to tilt backwards
- here's where it gets a bit tricky. My batteries won't slide up and out to the rear because of the subframe. One bolt on one side interferes so I remove it. I find where the battery just won't clear and with a piece of wood use some "persuasion" to move the frame just a skoosh and I can get the battery out using my third hand.

That's it in an overview...installation is the reverse. Hope that helps.


Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

mark_weiss's picture
Joined: 11/17/2013
Posts: 172
Depending on the exact

Depending on the exact battery dimensions, most will withdraw through the top. It is often a tight fit. Depending on the fasteners used in the upper subframe mounts, it may be necessary to remove the nuts and washers and then partially withdraw the screws. Remove the upper battery tray screws and also be sure to remove the vent tube fitting. As noted above, some unusually large batteries will not fit through the subframe and require removal of the airbox.



Hugh003's picture
100 Mile House, BC
Joined: 05/27/2012
Posts: 35
I don't get why it needs such

Note that you can make enough clearance by withdrawing the two sub-frame bolts, but don't remove them.

I don't get why it needs such a huge, heavy battery. Almost car-sized.

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