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jphilipc
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My '77 R60/7 stock handlebar seems too far forward and so narrow (25") that I can't see with the stock rear view mirrors. I ordered a cheap jcwhitney bar--->

Part #: BKMA110530
BikeMaster Center: 4.8", Rise: 2.4", Pullback: 4.8", Bend: European, Width: 30", 7/8" Outside Diameter Chrome Handlebar

I hope this will work. I don't like leaning forward like the cafe racer desigh so hope this being further back will let me sit more upright.
Any experience with doing this? The bar only cost $31 so I can send it back if it won't work.

Is it a big job to change the bars? I've done it a long time ago on other bikes but this might be different.
My BMW motorcycle mechanic wants $140 labor to do it.

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PhilC

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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PhilC - Issues I see are that

PhilC -

Issues I see are that the controls and supports are sized for 22mm bars but the JCW bars are bigger than that. Be careful...you could crack the "perches" or control housings if you're not careful. I wonder, too, about grips...will they still fit...maybe.

The other issue is going to be your cable lengths. Unless they were long to start with, your new cables will probably not reach. If they do reach, you may be putting undo strain on them. The cables that come to the tops of the carbs need to enter them more or less straight. If the cables are too short, they'll take a sharp bend as they enter the carb tops and you'll have inconsistent running and may have difficulty getting the carbs probably synched.

It's not all that difficult to change bars. Be sure and protect your tank by covering it.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

mark_weiss
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It is likely that the perches

It is likely that the perches will slide on, with some difficulty. The throttle tube is a different story, it is sized to be a close fit on a 22mm bar.
As already noted, cable length will be an issue. The clutch side generally is pretty flexible but the throttle and brake cables need to be a close fit. Grips will fit.

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Mark
qualitycycleservice.com

jphilipc
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I'll try to do it myself

I'll try to do it myself first I think, unless I can find someone to do it for $75 or so. The 7/8" diameter is a little bigger than 22 mikllimeters. As I remember it there are 2.54 centimeters per inch, so 7/8 inch shoould be 2.54*10*7/8 mm or 22.225mm. That's just a smidge over 22mm but maybe I'll be careful when tightening things up. I'll probably replace the handgrips since I like softer and larger diameter grips.

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PhilC

schrader7032
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What may happen and you

What may happen and you should be careful of this...when trying to squeeze things down to 22mm so that it's firm and doesn't turn on you will end up cracking the pot metal or plastic housings for the controls. The small $ job then becomes a bigger $$$ job. Unfortunately...

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

jphilipc
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Do it yourself handlebar replacement

Prior to taking off the handlebar I removed the "cafe racer" fairing and windshield. I've decided to get a taller one. So I'll sell this original one for $120 plus shipping. Only one small scratch on it.

http://s428.photobucket.com/user/Phil_Childress/media/IMG_1486_zpsaaqw8zxg.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Now I'm about halfway through replacing the handlebar. It's more work than I thought. The two pot-metal pieces--right side for throttle and left for clutch etc were loosened fairly easily with an allen wrench, but were HARD to pull off. I had made the handlebar loose by removing 4 13mm nuts on the clamps, then put a vice-grip in it halfway so I could work it back and forth to remove it. I removed the clutch side first since there was more slack in the clutch cable than the throttle cables. I can now see why it's a good idea to cover the tank. I cut the old grips off easily with a box blade. Two things I didn't realize--one that the throttle-side grip is a bit larger in inside diameter so the throttle itself can fit over the bar and inside the grip. Also, there is a bit of grease on the throttle side of the bar so the throtttle moves easily over it.

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PhilC

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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When going on with new grips,

When going on with new grips, I've always sprayed the inside of the new ones with Aqua Net hairspray. This lets them slide on but once dry, they're held on without issues of slipping.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

jphilipc
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Uh-oh. It was a far bigger

Uh-oh. It was a far bigger job than I thought. I finally got the new bar (6" longer than original ) on but it sits one inch too far left, and the throttle cables are so tight it wont idle ---races---and so can't be run. I will have to replace the throttle cables with longer ones.

I also broke off two wires going to the left (clutch) side grip fixture. There was one screw attaching a black plastic electrical thing to the bottom of the left handgrip where the two wires connected. Taking the screw out, it fell apart and has a spring and two small brass pieces. Looks like a on-button maybe for a horn or ???
I broke the small electrical clips off so have to solder on some more clips. Anyone know what this thing is?

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schrader7032
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Can you post some pictures of

Can you post some pictures of the "electrical thing" and where it is connected? From recall, it would seem that there is the clutch switch on the left side along with the wiring to the horn and lights.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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Here's $140 worth of airhead

You're earning $140 worth of airhead continuing education credits from the J.C. Whitney Technical Center . . .

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Konrad

jphilipc
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Clutch switch

Here it is---just a little 2-wire switch that moves with the clutch lever. No idea what it does. I buggered up the old one so have to find a new one.

  • img_1487.jpg
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schrader7032
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The clutch switch is part of

The clutch switch is part of an interlock to keep you from engaging the starter with the engine running. It should be part #3 seen here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0311-USA-07_1976_2477_BMW_R...

Any dealer can get it for you...might check with MaxBMW, Bob's BMW, or even BMW Hucky.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

jphilipc
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more problems

Yeah--Khan at EUBMW is ordering it for me. Just a safety thing--not really critical. He wanted only $15 for each throttle cable but $30 for this little switch. The throttle cables were 43.5 inches--4.5 longer than the stock ones. Now I have a problem with the front brake cable being too short and the bing carb throttle cable adjuster bolt being stuck and no-one at home depot could match the threads to buy a tap to chase the threads in that little pot-metal carb top holding the cable. I'm ready to sell and replace with a single cyl dualsport. Holding the carb-throttle slide spring together while you attach it is a real test of creative skill. I think I'll hold it with a special wire hook.

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PhilC

schrader7032
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It's a shame that a handlebar

It's a shame that a handlebar change has lead to consideration for selling the bike...sorry about that. Anything that doesn't kill you makes you stronger?? At Wits End

As for the carbs, unlikely a big box store is going to have what you need...just the name of the game. The carbs could be fixed by Bing if you sent them the carbs. If I recall these correctly, the knurled threaded screw is held firm by a jamb nut on top. I'm wondering if another jamb nut could be threaded on the underside of the carb tab such that the two jamb nuts work together to hold the carb adjuster in position. It really complicates the carb synch, but typically you do it once every 2-3 years, even long if necessary.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

jphilipc
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That's not it. The knurled

The large knurled knob that holds the slide in is fine. The knurled screw that adjusts the throttle cable length (and has a lock nut) wont screw into the pot-metal top of the carb more than about 1/8 inch due to buggered threads, whereas it should work easily with finger-touch.. Khan at EUBMW says he has a tap that can chase the threads but is on vacation until mid week--5 days from now. He also has a longer front brake cable which I'll need. All this for adding 5" to the bar width---ouch!!! I do see that Bing has a parts shop in KS and will call them if necessary.
*****later*****
I was able to take off and re-route the front brake cable to give it 2 1/2" more slack. Not a tertribly hard job but I had to use a c-clamp to hold the hydraulic pump closed to slacken the back end of the line to refasten it. Anyway, I won't need the longer one (I hope).

I called Bing and they said the older tops of Bing carbs ---all grey pot metal including the throttle cable lead---have 6m 0.75 pitch threads. If I had to replace the Bing tops they (Bing) only have new ones with the brass tubes for the throttle cable adjusters--for $78 each. So, I ordered a tap from Amazon ($6) which will come tomorrow.
Then finally my bike should be driveable.

Now that I have the wider handlebar I can buy a clear windscreen that bolts onto it--plenty of room now for such things.

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PhilC

jphilipc
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I finally got the handlebar

I finally got the handlebar on, with a new vertical clear windshield. The last little bit of a problem was screwing on the clutch switch---with a single small like 3m screw. I finally locked the clutch with a plastic zip-tie, and made a wire screw-holder by curling a small loop in the end of a short piece of wire, to hold the screw as I tried to guide it into an it's little hidden hole behind the clutch. Just starting that screw cost me a couple of hours. Now my only remaining problem is a horn that doesn't work. Must remove the tank to check that out---but now I know how easy that is to do. The handlebars were wide enough to let me see behind me with the rear-view mirrors, and to pick up a handle-bar mounted vertical clear windshield. Here's a pic of it now--->

  • img_1491.jpg
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PhilC

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