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Slash2
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I'm going to look at and most likely purchase an 88 R100RS in a couple days and am reaching out to any resident experts for advice. I started riding on a K12R and was never a big fan of the motor or its absurd amount of power, so I picked up an R60/2 and an R27 which both suit me much better. That said, I'm intrigued by the idea of having a slightly more modern machine with a full fairing while retaining the feel of my /2 powerplant. I'm not sure how I'll feel about the posture as I know it won't be as relaxed as my/2 but there are plenty of handlebar options if the stock bars don't suit me.

The bike in question is in very nice condition with 18k on the clock being offered by the original owner. It comes with original hard bags, tool kit, and original paperwork. The original title shows the odometer reading of 2 miles. I think she's a fine machine in very nice shape but as I don't have much experience with the later bikes, I'm looking for any useful tips or suggestions anyone might have. I'll add a few pics as soon as I get a chance.

Cheers!

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

schrader7032
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I used to own a '78

I used to own a '78 R100RS...I would still love to have the bike, but the lean over posture really didn't suit me. I never investigated changing the bars, though, which might have helped. With the RS series, you really need the air hitting your chest at speed to hold you up a bit, taking weight off the wrists.

About the only I can think of about the '85-94 bikes is that the transmission will be missing the circlip on the output shaft. Apparently a cost cutting move but the tendency is for the shaft to move around without the circlip. Anton covers it here:

http://www.largiader.com/articles/circlip/

It's not going to blow up on you but something to watch...fuzz on the drain plug, tightness when turning the gears by hand. Easily fixed once you pull the trans apart.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Slash2
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Thanks for the response Kurt!

Thanks for the response Kurt! From the article you cited it sounds as though the side loaded outer bearing is slowly pushed outward by the helical gears while running in 5th gear. Although a circlip would inhibit this, it sounds like a terrible design.

With such low miles, I wonder if this is something I won't have to worry about for a long time. Has anyone dealt with this issue and if so what mileage did your bike have at the time.

Cheers!

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

khittner
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The fairing and riding

The fairing and riding position, and not the circlip, are the bigger potential issues with an RS. With reasonable maintenance, the transmission could go another 70-100K without the circlip's absence causing an issue.

While the RS fairing is aesthetically gorgeous, and will protect you from ridiculously low ambient temps, and from a lot of rain and road crap, you need to have the correct body dimensions for it to work comfortably. In a similar thread on the Boxerworks forum, one owner suggested that the design fits riders between 5'11" and 6'3" well, and that may well be correct. If you fall into that range, you may be in luck. I used to have an RS fairing on a 1986 monoshock R80 (essentially the same bike you're looking at with a smaller displacement engine), and at 5'7" or 5'8", the stubby RS bar was too distant and low for comfortable extended riding. The choices of alternative handlebars are also less extensive than you may be thinking. The RS handlebar fits nicely into the fairing when turned from lock-to-lock; higher and/or wider ones will not. Bar-backs, C-type K bars, or an S-bar with a bolt through the lower clamp stop block can work, though each solution begets other issues with windshield height, control cables and tubes, wind noise, low-speed turning radius, etc. And any full fairing reflects a considerable amount of engine noise back at the rider even when you manage to optimize the simultaneous wind noise issues, and can limit summertime riding comfort, as well.

I wouldn't tell you to not buy it, but take the bike for a reasonably long test ride to see whether it works well for you. I don't know that a lot of seat time will improve through a "training effect" any shortcomings you notice. The RS fairing had a good, long production run, but they don't make them quite that way anymore--and perhaps for good reasons. If you fit into its narrow operational envelope, you'll have found a great keeper. If not, you'll join a wizened line of only-semi-wistful "used-to-haves" who liked that bike, but don't really miss it much. If your garage space or airhead support budgets are limited, you may want something else, despite how cool it is. An S-model is probably a better 3-season (Spring-Fall) airhead for most folks.

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schrader7032
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I'm 6'1" and the R100RS

I'm 6'1" and the R100RS didn't work for me. I think it's a highly personal thing...ergonomics has a range of inputs. I prefer the bolt upright riding style on my /7...my spine is vertical and basically cuts a vertical line through the foot pegs. I have bar backs to achieve that position. One really needs a full fairing for that, otherwise you're blown backwards and you're just hanging on. Leaning forward would just get old. That's for me. YMMV.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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Well, there goes another

Well, there goes another RS-fit theory, Kurt---maybe it sold just enough units for 17 years on looks alone. I wonder what Hans Muth has to say about the intended fit for his creation?

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schrader7032
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I was just looking through a

I was just looking through a 1993 Sport Rider article on the R100RS. Not much on the seating position other than if you're particular long legged, the knees will end up fitting the fairing. So, being tall, which I attach longer legged to, could be a problem. How tall, not sure.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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The low mileage (<700

The low mileage (<700 mies/year since new!) on Slash 2's one-owner example may speak directly to the issue we've highlighted. Many airhead lovers want to be RS guys. A goodly number of airhead lovers have been RS guys. A lot of RS guys try tweaks to try to remain RS guys---after all, an RT is a step toward the grave/Gold-Wing-iness that can't be taken. But relatively few airhead lovers remain long-standing happy RS guys---and I admire from afar those that do. But most motorcycles probably sell on looks and hope, and Slash 2 may be an optimist.

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I bought my 1992 R100RS

I bought my 1992 R100RS several years ago, mainly on the strength of the looks (the fairing reminded me of my old /2 with a full Avonaire fairing that I bought new in 1968). Found two big issues-at 68 years of age the forward lean position was intolerable, and the very short bars made maneuvering around the garage difficult with high risk of a tipover (no leverage). Changed to /7 repro bars from Flanders AND bar backs too, the riding position is now excellent and leverage much better. The changeover took a fair bit of doing, replacing the cables and brake line with RT bits, but the main issue was the brake reservoir hitting the fairing and limiting lock to lock travel. For that, cut off the reservoir leaving only the bottom most part sitting on the master cylinder, fabbed up a plate to screw to that with a stub brazed to it to run a line to a handlebar remote,got a new Brembo remote reservoir and positioned it far enough back to avoid hitting the fairing. Works well, with nearly full lock to lock travel now, but took several days of work

Adam

khittner
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And with Adam's testimony,

And with Adam's testimony, the prosecution rests its case Smile

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Makes me kinda wish I'd have

Makes me kinda wish I'd have thought outside the box! At Wits End

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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Before taking a Sawzall to

Before taking a Sawzall to your master cylinder reservoir, you might want ask about wind noise.

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Slash2
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Well fellas it sounds like

Well fellas it sounds like the juries out on this bike. Tons of good insight, opinions and suggestions. Thanks for all the input.

I happen to be 6 feet tall so perhaps I'll find my dimensions in tune with Hans Muth's design. At 32 I hope that for my purposes, which are mostly long days and weekend trips, the stock riding position will be sufficient. I'm looking forward to seeing the bike in person and taking her out for a spin.

It was 72 in Western Pennsylvania today and I got a nice ride in on my 60/2. Hope some of you folks are enjoying the fall as well. Cheers!

  • 8238712_img_0885.jpg_3.jpeg
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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

oldnslo
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Everything's a compromise.

Everything's a compromise. The wider /7 bars not only help maneuvering around the garage, but make countersteering inputs while riding stronger, so in that regard improve handling. But, your hands are now for the most part outside the fairing envelope; good in summer, less so in cold weather. Also with an upright posture, your helmet is now up more in the airstream-some like that, some don't-the windshield may need to be modified to suit. At 5'9" the bike now works very well for me, a visiting friend who is 6'4" couldn't even begin to fit behind the fairing. I will say that without the modifications, I would not have kept the bike. It really is an excellent two-up tourer with a nice vintage look.

For older folks, I think an upright posture is very important-I fabbed up a set of barbacks for my /2 so that I could keep the "S" bars but still enjoy the bike

Adam

khittner
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Oh, yeah, that's a sweet one.

Oh, yeah, that's a sweet one. Ahh---to be 32 with an R100RS that fits! Looks like a charmed life to me!

Just make sure you have enough garage space to keep it and any likely minivan stablemate inside. One other selling point on the RS would be that it may be possible to roll one up into a Honda Odyssey for any winter jaunts over to Rubber Chicken, Bob's, Max, etc. So when you're shopping for that minivan, and someone else is charmed by the heated seats and video screens (jeez, I'm dating myself---she'll want the 7G wireless links for the kids' I-suits, so they can go virtually through "My Pretty Ponyland" while the 'rents go clubbing at Sam's, Costco, etc.), be sure to look for tie-down point possibilities inside. With an RT's taller shield, you gotta have a pick-up, a trailer, or a Sprinter. We're here to help think through all the angles!

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Slash2
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Charmed indeed. Fortunately,

Charmed indeed. Fortunately, I occupy an old industrial garage that I rolled in with my retail location lease years ago. The garage door itself is large enough to accommodate an 18 wheeler and I've got an old FJ-40 in there along with a dozen or so other bikes. 99 problems, but space ain't one. (Now I'm dating myself) I suppose I find myself on the opposite side of the space problem seeing as I've got so much it encourages bad decisions. IE too many bikes. No kids for me, at least not yet and I don't see a minivan in the near future.

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

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For what it is worth I am

For what it is worth I am 6'2" and I loved my R100RS. I only sold it in order to purchase an R1100RS. I can't say that I really miss it, since the 1100 does everything I needed the RS to do, it was my daily rider. However, if a good one showed up, I would probably be interested in picking it up as an extra. On a side note, I rode that R100RS two up from Indiana to New Orleans and all around the Midwest for many years. I loved the riding position, not to forward, but not straight up and down.

khittner
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Slash---No man anticipates

Slash---No man anticipates minivan-dom. But next Spring, when you start rolling up to Pittsburgh-area social venues on that oh-so-cool RS (of course, it's only a small indicator of your overall coolness) with enough wherewithal/reliability to have a commercial lease, there will be some array of 30-something candidates who will be interested in helping to rationalize your spending patterns. And being 30-somethings, biological imperatives tend to manifest themselves, and this is where minivans are thrust upon otherwise-worldly, but critically naive, young men. It's not the worst thing---a Sienna or Odysssey can actually rocket right along, and, truth is, they're handy as hell for many tasks---including hauling malfunctioning RSes and /2s, dragging a pop-up over to Mid-Ohio or down to Barber, etc. Situational awareness is key to a happy long-term relationship with any motorcycle, particularly with a platinum blonde bombshell like that RS. And, as I said before, your friends at VBMWMO are here to help.

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Slash2
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Konrad, Spoken like a man

Konrad,

Spoken like a man who's “been there, done that," and got away with it.

Incidentally there's already a little lady in the picture and she's pushing 25, but pushing matrimonial security even harder. We're headed from Pittsburgh up to lake Michigan for the weekend and if all goes well, I'll be bringing home a girlfriend turned fiance and an R100RS. Now who says you can't have your cake and eat it too?

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

khittner
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Situational Awareness!

Slash2 wrote:

There's already a little lady in the picture and she's pushing 25, but pushing matrimonial security even harder. We're headed from Pittsburgh up to lake Michigan for the weekend and if all goes well, I'll be bringing home a girlfriend turned fiance and an R100RS. Now who says you can't have your cake and eat it too?

As George Takei would say: "Oh, my!" Uh, Slash---chances are quite good that She will do her best to constrain cake procurement and/or consumption---unless your life is so flippin' charmed that you've been latched onto by one of those 1 in 1000 women who enjoy motorcycles. No faking interest in the hope of changing you, or assuming that you'll get rid of all the bikes when the kids arrive and you have to do the estate plan naming their guardians.

Well, good luck---we hope it all goes well for both of you (you and the RS, that is!) . . .

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Slash2
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I hit the lotto, she's the 1

I hit the lotto, she's the 1 in 1000. She loves our motorcycle hunting trips as much as I do. You should see her case a bike. She looks the bike over and we discuss the plan, price and negotiation together. Heck, she talked me into my R60/2 several years ago. Before that I was riding a 72 CB 500. I had no clue what I was missing.

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

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Lotto, indeed! That's cool.

Lotto, indeed! That's cool. I'm looking for my red headed Irish woman who also rides/wrenches her own BMW. Not very good odds, I'm afraid.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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She's been well-raised. I'm

She's been well-raised. I'm fully-obligated myself, but if she has any single sisters, there are probably forum watchers who'd like to know.

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I'm a bit over 6-2 and am on

I'm a bit over 6-2 and am on my second R100RS. Put over 100k miles on #1 and have put about 70k miles on #2. I prefer the stock, narrow and nearly flat, handlebar. I solved the knee/fairing issue by installing a set of Raask rearsets. In my opinion this also was a considerable improvement on the seating position. My current RS included the 3/4 saddle and I find that seat to be preferable to the standard double bench. I have found the bike to be all-day comfortable.

As a side note, I do not think that the engine feel is anything similar to a /2. There's a lot more of, everything, coming from the newer powerplant.

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oldnslo
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Just for grins, some pics of

Just for grins, some pics of the remote reservoir setup I made up for my R100RS-allows nearly full lock to lock swing with the R100/7 bars+barbacks

Adam

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  • remotereserv2.jpg
khittner
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Slash: Sit rep, over. Will

Slash: Sit rep, over. Will you have a committed, long-term relationship with the RS, the young lady, or both/neither?

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Slash2
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Well fellas, give it to me

Well fellas, give it to me straight. Read at own risk.

So during the discussion and negotiation of the bike, the seller indicated that she was in excellent running, mechanical, cosmetic condition etc apart from a single issue. He stated that the right exhaust gasket would need replaced as it leaked a bit of air during operation. As these gaskets run about $10 from BMW, this didn't strike me as an issue or a deal breaker and as you know, I went ahead with the buy. When I went to see the bike in person, it seemed to be as described in all ways. She ran great, looked great, and sounded great. I could hear the exhaust leak but he warned me of that and I expected it. So, the bike was loaded into my trailer and we drove the 400 or so miles back to Pennsylvania. On the night we returned, I unloaded the bike and did some perfunctory poking around and found under the seat an invoice dating from December of 1990. The invoice detailed a service job in which a "stripped right exhaust nut and sublet" were supposedly repaired. This gave me immediate pause as the single issue I was warned about just happened to be a leaking right sight exhaust gasket. This seemed like too great a coincidence to be ignored but I tried to remain optimistic. I began hitting both exhaust nuts with penetrating oil Sunday the first of November and waited until today to give the nuts a turn and answer the nagging question that has been troubling me for the past two weeks.

To my initial surprise the right exhaust nut spun free with almost no resistance, turned about 180 degrees before beginning to bind a bit again. I immediately stopped turning the nut and sat back to access the situation. At this point I had no idea what was going on inside the nut, but from experience I know that force is usually not the answer when critical threads are in question. I figured at this point that I'd turn my attention to the left exhaust nut to see what I might get into there as the left side is not leaking air. I gave the wrench an initial heave, another and then increasingly harder until I was pulling with enough force that the bike began to totter on it's center stand. At this point I determined that this method was going to bear no fruit so I stopped. The nut hadn't budged. Not even a millimeter. So I returned to the right exhaust head nut. Now that I had turned it about 180 degrees, I applied a liberal amount of penetrating oil and began turning the nut back and forth by hand. After a few minutes it began to move a bit further and I put the wrench back onto it and with a normal amount of resistance turned it the remainder of the way off the head revealing a pretty heavily damaged surface. The nut itself looks practically perfect with no damage whatsoever to the threads so it appears that while the nut was most likely replaced when the damage occurred back in mid 1990, the threads were clearly not addressed. The nut will thread easily back onto the head and can be tightened to the stop by hand, but it looks pretty bad and I've got to imagine that this is contributing the leaking issue. It appears that the damaged threads toward the outer portion of the head is prohibiting the nut from fully seating against the head.

If anyone has read this far, thank you and I apologize for the length of the description. What I'd like to know from any resident experts is what am I looking at to have this repaired properly? I realize that the head would have to removed and sent out to someone (Randy Long?) qualified to tig weld the area back up and rebuild the threads, or perhaps just source a replacement head? As far as the left head goes, I imagine that the nut will have to be cut off with a dremel unless there's some other miraculous method that someone would like to share with me.

Suffice it to say the honeymoon period has ended and I haven't even ridden the bike yet. Somebody give me some good news!

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

schrader7032
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Sorry to hear about that. I

Sorry to hear about that. I agree that the left side should be cut off. And I would probably have cut the right on off too, at the first instance of stiffness after the first release. None of us were there at the original repair, if indeed it was done properly. But one could make a case for the fact that it was repaired and that your attempts to remove it created the damage seen now. I'm just throwing that out there...again no one will ever know.

My background...when I was young and stupid and before the internet, I removed the exhaust numbers on my new-to-me /7. Not understanding what was going on, the right hand nut loosened and then retightened. Again, the stupid part took over and I just began to work it off and work through the stiffness. The result were threads looking like what you posted. I was in the middle of replacing the rings and was removing the head anyway. I took the head up to a mechanic well known in BMW circles in Austin, TX. He welded a new stub on, did some internal undercutting to hold things in place, cut new threads, and I was back in business. That was with about 15K miles on the bike.

I was deathly afraid of doing that again, that nearly 100K miles later, it was time for a top end. Did I even attempt to turn off the exhaust nuts. Heck no! I immediately went for the hacksaw and cold chisel. I'm glad I did.

I had used heat sink paste when putting things back together at 15K but, again, due to the fear of these things, I never did the remove yearly and renew the paste maintenance step. I kind of wish I had but I didn't really want to touch them. So, now all three of my bikes will never have their exhaust nuts touched for a very long time!

Anyway, I feel your pain. Yes there are people who can return things to normal although there will be scars visible...battle scars. There is a clamp-on connection for this...I can't find a link for it now. It's somewhat ugly but not too bad...but it's a way to get things back together much sooner while waiting for a better time to do the repair the right way.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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The good news is that your

The good news is that your heads will be in great shape after Randy Long (excellent choice there) fixes them, and if you send them off now, you'll get them back in time for next riding season. And, if your girlfriend will stick with you through this cycle-related cash-suck, she has unambiguously proven her biker-fiancée bonafides.

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Slash2
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Well I gathered all the

Well I gathered all the requisite tools and prepared for surgery. 90° grinding wheel, solid carbide dremel, cold chisels, and hammer. I made a straight cut across the top and bottom leaving about 2mm of material. I then took the chisel and gave each cut a few strikes. This seemed to produce no effect. I decided instead of cutting further and risking the threads to give the chisel a few strikes in the direction to loosen the nut. Surprisingly the nut began to move very slowly at first but within 5-10 strikes is spun free. I removed the nut the rest of the way off by hand revealing perfectly undamaged threads.

After closely inspecting both nuts, it is clear that they are not both identical. I believe the left nut to be original and the right to be a replacement further supporting my initial theory based upon the invoice. Seeing as no thread debris came off with the right nut nor was there sufficient resistance, (I've been a mechanic for the past 8 years) I feel pretty certain that the damage revealed on the right head was done long ago.

Does anyone know if a die exists that could clean the threads on the right side? Thanks!

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

schrader7032
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Yes, there's a die but it's a

Yes, there's a die but it's a special size/order. Possibly buying a new exhaust nut, you could cut grooves in the threads such that it becomes a thread chaser. Maybe cutting it in two halves for better use.

For just touching up threads, a metric file can be used. They're pretty common.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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I'm not a machinist--though I

I'm not a machinist--though I could play one during a closing argument---so here's my question: Are there enough threads remaining on that right side exhaust spigot to effectively chase them back to functionality? From the 25 year old repair receipt, it looks like those exhaust threads were repaired with more "good will" than skill---the 2yr./unlimited mile warranty must've expired by the time the bike came wheezing back into Andy Pelc's long-defunct Canton shop.

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Perhaps it's just optimism

Perhaps it's just optimism but it appears that there are to my untrained eye. The nut will thread on quite smoothly and snug up as is. Whether it will seal against the new gasket when it arrives is the $$$ question. But I would definitely chase the threads if I had or could source the appropriate die.

Oddly the original invoice for the bike shows that it was actually purchased new in April of 1990 meaning it was only 8 months old when it came in for this issue and had sat on his showroom floor unwanted for a few years since new. Poor thing. So apparently they didn't feel like dealing with the issue properly and honoring the warranty. Thanks Andy Pelc.

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

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Bruno could take care of it
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khittner
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Bruno could be a long wait.

Bruno could be a long wait. Recent threads on both the Boxerworks and ADVRider forums indicate that Bruno may be having significant health problems, and throughput and communication are understandably slow.

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Konrad

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Thank You

Thank you! I'll keep Bruno in mind should the head need to be sent out.

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

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Does anyone run the rubber

Does anyone run the rubber fork boots that interface with the fairing? These things seem a bit clumsy but I suppose mine are probably a bit dried out.

I've got the exhaust nuts and gaskets on the way from my local BMW dealer, should be in next week. In the mean time I'm pulling the exhaust to give it a good look and cleaning. Speaking of cleaning, what do you guys use to clean the engine cases? I've always used petrol on my /2 which works great but doesn't produce the same effect on the RS. I'm not looking for a mirror finish, just want to bring it back to as close to original as I can.

While I'm at it, and without starting an oil debate, what do you guys recommend for oil in this bike?

Cheers!

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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Rubber fork boots/gaitors?

Rubber fork boots/gaitors? Standard on my /7...I would find a way to run them as they protect the front of the forks from road debris...that can scare the surface and eat up the seals.

WD-40 is a decent cleaner. I've tried a number of things, but some will put a gray case on the surface. The best way is to take the empty case to the car wash and blast away. But if not that, it's just elbow grease. Maybe a dilute solution of Simple Green...but don't leave for long...try it out in an out of the way location.

Oil...aaahh, now we're talkin'! Nominally the weight should be 20w50. I prefer dino oil. You should also look for something that has an API rating of SG/SH...contains a good amount of ZDDP. Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil is good. The semi-synth Spectro Golden 4 is probably one of the best. BMW's dino oil used to be blended by Spectro but they've changed at least once in the past couple of years.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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I use the fairing boots on my

I use the fairing boots on my RT. They close off the front of the fairing from wind---which may be useful, or not, depending on your tastes for wind flow behind the fairing. If yours are falling down (pretty common on RTs and RSes), a few dabs of super-glue will keep them in place. If you want to run regular fork tube gaiters that Kurt is suggesting, I don't think it's possible to use the fairing boots and gaiters at the same time. I'm also not sure which gaiter part # works with the later K-style fork on your monoshock RS.

Oil? Some think that an SG-rated oil, with whatever its ZDDP content may be, is absolutely critical. I'm not convinced. If you keep a clean supply of 20W-50 of whatever flavor you like in yours, it'll probably be fine for a long time.

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Konrad

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Crap...I hate airport WiFi...

Crap...I hate airport WiFi... Anyway, I have seen the faces of lifters of an R60/2 shredded because the wrong oil was used. A friend was running a popular Shell oil, diesel I believe, that had good ZDDP content. But unfortunately, the formulation changed and he didn't know. Silver flakes in the oil caused us to pull the jugs...the lifters were toast. I still believe that have a true SG oil should be OK in whatever favor. I did some oil testing for the MOA magazine a couple of years ago and was amazed at what is out there. It's not like the good stuff is hard to find...Pep Boys, Autozone, etc., will have decent stuff. Some oils say they're 20w50 but their API ratings go up to SL/SM...that's not good.

I consider the oil in my engine its blood...I prefer to have pretty quality stuff in there. I can cut corners somewhere else if I want to continue to live up to the cheapest thing on a BMW...the rider!!!

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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So the cam followers in a

So the lifters in a 50yr.-old bike (do /2 engines even have an oil filter in them?) failed because of oil that has only half the zinc and phosphorus of the stuff widely available up until twenty years ago? OK.

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schrader7032
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My point is that my R69S,

My point is that my R69S, basically the same age has not suffered he same fate and I've used good oil the entire time. Same with my /7 which has 100K miles on it.

But then, a bike belongs to each owner and they're free to do what they want. I just don't see why people cut corners on something that is so important. Not being a petroleum engineer, I'll err on the side of caution. IMO.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

khittner
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Well, in the interests of

(Brief thread hijack) Well, in the interests of science, I'd like to see the Airheads or VBMWMO conduct a lubrication test/demo at the next MOA rally to establish with some certainty which bike is, in fact, the "Greatest Motorcycle Ever": Really? The Cub? Presumably, Kurt won't be offering his /7 or 69S for the used fryer oil oil-change, or the building-drop tests. And while a serviceable airhead RT is only worth about two Honda Cubs (nice ones fetch $1200+), I don't know any volunteers there, either, but they must be out there . . .

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Well fellas.. I got the new

Well fellas.. I got the new nuts and gaskets in and I'm a little miffed. The new gaskets are half the thickness of the old and with the nuts snugged up the headers are loose as a goose. Am I missing something? Just wrong parts? The new gaskets are obviously the shiny thinner ones in the photos.

  • img_20151124_211554140.jpg
  • img_20151124_211601027_hdr.jpg
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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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You're missing another part.

You're missing another part. You need split ring and a solid ring to work against the split ring. See #16 and 17 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0466-USA-02-1988-2478-BMW-R...

Here's a picture of my /7...should be essentially the same.

  • slash2exhaustrings.jpg
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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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Wow that explains it. thank

Wow that explains it. thank you! Wonder what part 18 Assembling paste is?

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

schrader7032
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The paste is anti-seize.

The paste is anti-seize. Permatex makes great products for this. You want something with high temp protection, like 2400 degF. I used the nickel alloy product.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

mark_weiss
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Arizona
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Your new gaskets look to be

Your new gaskets look to be the correct shape and size. I have not seen gaskets that look like your old set. With the compression rings, all will be fine.

Also, if you have no luck at finding someone to repair the exhaust threads, we have made that repair. TIG weld a new spigot to the head and cut the threads. It is an obvious repair, the weld is visible, but is quite functional.

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qualitycycleservice.com

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Can anyone weigh in on the

Can anyone weigh in on the importance of parts 6 & 9 from the fiche above? When I called my dealer this am to get the compression rings on the way, I inquired about these gaskets and was told, “they're pricey just go buy a roll of exhaust tape at an auto parts store." This sounded reasonable so I went looking. After two strikes at auto parts stores and a final strike at a motorcycle shop, I'm out and wondering if I should've just ordered the gaskets from my dealer. Any thoughts?

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

mark_weiss
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6 and 9 are graphite sleeves.

6 and 9 are graphite sleeves. They work very well but are very fragile. We've had suitable success using aluminum duct sealing tape (the metal stuff, not cloth). Cut strips and wrap around the pipe for a snug fit. Heat seems to seal the layers of tape together and it forms a pretty good gasket. Not the same as the real stuff, but a reasonable low-cost substitute.

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qualitycycleservice.com

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Update

So I finally got the compression gaskets in for the exhaust and decided to take a few hours tonight to bolt the thing back together. I took the opportunity while I waited for the parts to come in to dismantle the entire exhaust system and give it a real good scrub. So she went back on gleaming. The new nuts installed quite smoothly and after one on/off on the damaged side, the nut went on as if the threads were new. Once satisfied that everything was properly tightened I hit the starter and was quite relieved to find the bike running great with zero leak on either side and I hadn't even given the nuts much mustard. It rained off and on all day and has been hovering around 40 degrees, but that didn't stop me from taking my maiden ride around the block.

Needless to say I was grinning from ear to ear as I pulled her back into the garage with big plans of a more thorough ride tomorrow. They're calling for sunshine and 50 degrees! A perfect day for an RS!

Thanks again for all the help and input along the way. This forum has been invaluable in my progress thus far and I know I'll be back with plenty more questions in the future. Happy Holidays!

Here's a shot of my fiancé and my "engagement RS." Haha

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64' R60/2 - 66' R27 - 51' R67 - 68' R69S
88' R100RS - 06' K12R

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