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brisvegan
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https://imgur.com/a/owoTB

Hi guys. I inherited my dads R80 and promptly crashed it. The instruments snapped off at the
base but after looking inside it seems as good a time as any to give it a touch up. I've taken it a plastic welder who has quoted a good price.

The light display on the speedometer has always been really weak. I could barely see my speed
at night. Its possible that replacing the bulb could help because i think it might be burnt
out. Does it need to be an OEM part or can i buy any old compatible bulb down at the corner
store. I was thinking about hacking together an LED array to go inside but that would be a
last resort since getting it to work off the bikes power would be difficult for me to figure
out. I bought a 10v bulb as opposed to the 2v is supposed to take so ill see how that goes once the bike is up and running. 5v previously didnt cut it

The needle of the speedometer is slightly bent and its annoying. How difficult is it to remove and swap the tachometer and the speedometer needles?

The paint inside the unit is so worn i think i wouldnt even need to sand it to remove it. It
would all come off if i rubbed it with my fingers. Can i just respray it with any kind of
reflective paint? Would this help with the poor illumination?

The screw bases points holding the unit together are damaged. The bike vibrates a lot and the instruments vibrate worse than anything so much that they are difficult to read. Im guessing this vibration could be part of the reason the mountings are broken. Do you have any tips for reducing these vibrations

When i removed the backplate off there was a kind of tape with foam on the otherside that i had to peel off. It came off awkardly and its crumbly. what is the function of this tape and foam? Do i need to replace it or can i ignore this?

Whilst i have your attention ill mention the fuel tank. I think the red coat needs to be redone because i can see it peeling off and i can see sediment in there. Is this difficult to do?

Thanks very much.

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6327
Welcome! You might read this

Welcome! You might read this site regarding bulbs and LED substitutions:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/lamps.htm

Probably should get to know the whole website, too.

As for the needle, I didn't see anything really bent in your photos, but I think I've heard that using a pickle fork can be used to pull the needle off. Not totally sure about that, though.

Snowbum has some pages on cleaning gas tanks and relining them. Products like POR15 and Re-Kote are good...Caswell plating also makes good products. Note that any serious cleaning, etching, etc., of the inside can affect the outside of the tank. I suppose with sufficient protection, one can do the inside without hurting the outside paint.

Use his search engine to find things.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

brisvegan
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awesome. ill check that out.

awesome. ill check that out. thanks.

Do you have to remove the old lining in anyway before you apply a new product? Does it matter if the new and old product arent the same brand?

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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What lining are you talking

What lining are you talking about? I suppose if no one ever sees it, not sure that it matters. But I would think that the old flaky original product should be removed and the surface prepared for accepting new paint.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

brisvegan
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The internal lining of the

The internal lining of the fuel tank. My understanding is fuel tanks are coated with a paint to prevent rust. I have no reason to think there is rust in there but i can see a lot of sediment in the bottom and different patches of color that looks like the paint is coming off in flecks.

How common and how much of a problem are rusty fuel tanks?

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6327
It's not so much as a paint

It's not so much as a paint but a special coating which strongly adheres to the inside of the tank. It's somewhat common, getting more so with the type of fuels we have now. The coating is designed to protect the steel tank from rusting from the inside out. Water invariably gets into the tank due to condensation and will settle in the bottom. The new fuels will absorb some of that water but not all.

The tank on my R25/2 has a bit of rust on the inside...I left the tank partially full of fuel for the duration of my rebuild. My /7 is showing signs of red flakes in the fuel line screens. At some point, I'm going to have to tackle the issue. But both tanks have a nice paint job that I will have to work to protect.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

brisvegan
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Update here. I found this

Update here. I found this product

http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/motorcycle-fuel-tank-sealer-kit/

I havent tried it yet but it sounds like what im looking for.

I still havnt fired up the bike yet. I got the instruments repaired at a professional plastics welder. I was pleasantly surprised at the price, but now ive screwed it back in the slight cracks seems more pronounced so i hope they hold up. The bike vibrates a lot and its especially noticeable on the instruments so i need to figure out how to reduce those vibrations.

I bought a left hand instrument perch but it was for an r100. Turns out theyre not compatible. I removed the grips by pouring boiling water on them. I got the correct perch now and spray painted it and installed it. The only problem im having is the choke switch. It doesnt sit tightly and isnt staying locked so im worried it might be missing a part. I replaced the brake light switch but its still not working so im going to replace the bulb.

khittner
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Joined: 02/15/2012
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A 1992 R80? In the U.S., or

A 1992 R80? In the U.S., or elsewhere? I don't think that BMW brought naked R80s into the U.S. after R100 monoshock importing resumed in 1988.

At any rate, I wouldn't use much more time on plastic repairs if you want a reliable instrument cluster---the thing is subject to significant vibration inputs, particularly on a naked bike, and is out in the weather every time it's ridden or parked away from home. New OEM case parts are still available, or the usual used bike breakers will probably have instrument clusters available. Getting the correct speedo unit for an R80 may be a little trickier---its gearing has to match the R80's shorter gearing--but there are probably donor R80RTs out there. Or get in touch with one of the speedo & clock repair outfits (I used Palo Alto Speedo years ago, and they did good gauge work for me), and see what they can do to put new case bits onto your working gauges. You want the whole thing weathertight---flakey foam in the housing probably needs to be replaced, as do several of the rubber gaskets that are probably toasted, too.

The instrument lights weren't particularly bright, even when that bike was new. If you're expecting/wanting your new-to-you bike's instruments to light up like the LED panel on a late-model car, you're going to have be creative. I wouldn't bother--the instrument lighting was enough to make the gauges visible in the dark, without creating a bright distraction that probably detracts from night vision on a dark road. Try turning down the rheostat on your car's instrument lights, and you'll see what the BMW engineers probably had in mind with the dim cluster lights. Besides, if you're needing to regularly consult with your tach or speedo while riding at night, you need to accumulate more seat time on the bike during daylight to get how it feels and sounds at normal speeds. And, if you're new to motorcycling more generally, go take an MSF course before putting Dad's bike back on the road.

That bike is a keeper and well worth repairing, even if it doesn't command collector bike price offers. There are few better motorcycles than a well-kept monoshock R80---I wish that I still had mine (RIP, '86 R80!).

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Konrad

brisvegan
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After it got plastic welded

After it got plastic welded the instruments were well out of calibration. Paid as more to get them fixed than it would have cost to get a new housing. I worry about that weld joint. We'll see i guess. IDK if they properly reconditioned it all but for what they charged they better. And i still dont fully trust the speedo to be completely accurate. And no. Not the U.S

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